Henry Henderson
Junior Communications Officer Henry Henderson spoke with Alice Varini, Founder and CEO of Alice Varini Jewellery, to discuss her journey from working with leading jewellery houses in France to building a long-term creative and entrepreneurial presence in Cambodia.
In the conversation, Alice reflects on her early years in the country, the cultural shifts that shaped her personal and professional growth, and her experience leading the jewellery division at Artisans d’Angkor before launching her own brand. She shares insights into Cambodia’s jewellery and gemstone landscape, highlighting both the challenges of market transparency and the value of hands-on, small-scale craftsmanship.
Establishing a brand in Cambodia
Henry: You began your career in France working with leading jewelry houses before moving to Cambodia, where you went on to build and lead the jewelry division at Artisans d’Angkor before eventually starting your own business. What initially drew you to Cambodia, and what made you decide to establish your own brand here long-term?
Alice: The initial year in Cambodia was quite challenging for me, to be honest. Being disconnected from my French “Parisian” and corporate/process-oriented way of working felt like a cultural shock. I wanted to approach things in the “French way” while appreciating all that Cambodia had to offer. It was my workers, my jewelers at Artisans d’Angkor, that I trained who truly helped me see, feel, and understand the authentic Cambodia, beyond the tourist or expat bubble.
Learning Khmer helped me connect to the country faster too. This country has profoundly contributed to my personal growth, teaching me patience, understanding, and adaptability.
In Siem Reap, away from Pub Street, the city also fosters a deep connection to nature, contemplation, and self-reflection. It was here that I resolved to establish my own brand, although I was uncertain about the timing! Then I met Veasna, my partner for the past seven years and the father of our two children, who encouraged me to move to Phnom Penh, believe in myself, and pursue my business aspirations.
I honestly doubt I would have taken that step without his support. I started my company with just $2000 and I bought a microscope for $1500 to be sure that the gems I buy are the correct ones!
Henry: With experience spanning design, production, and gemology, you have worked across the full jewelry value chain. How would you describe Cambodia’s position today within the regional gemstone and jewelry market?
Alice: I am uncertain if I fully grasp the jewelry market, as my approach and offerings differ significantly from the way jewelry is traditionally utilised in Cambodia.
Many shops still charge very low labour fees because few properly declare their employees, and there exists a prevalent culture of purchasing gold by weight to resell it shortly thereafter. The market is also heavily saturated with “ready-made” designs, primarily featuring standard-cut natural or lab-grown diamonds and synthetic moissanite.
My perspective is distinct: I aspire for people to engage in conscious purchasing of wearable art that can be passed down to their children or grandchildren. What I appreciate here is that nearly all jewelry shops focus on handmade, small-scale production, in stark contrast to the massive factories in Vietnam and Thailand where workers operate like machines.
Crafting jewelry in Cambodia, compared to my previous experiences, is not cheaper and is far more complex than in Vietnam, Thailand, or even China. However, this complexity is what I cherish, as I recognise that year after year, our jewelers become more skilled because they are involved in the entire process. We grow together: me, the business, and them!
The work is not divided into tasks to “optimise” efficiency, which ensures they can learn beyond the repetitive tasks typical of mass-market jewelry design. However, I see some emerging Khmer brands that are mainly the son or daughter of wealthy jewelers here that are very creative and bring new breath into Khmer jewelry with really unique designs.
Gemology and gemstone certification
Henry: You also bring a scientific lens through your work in gemology and gemstone certification. How important is trust, transparency, and certification in shaping customer confidence, both locally and internationally, and are what are the challenges and opportunities in sourcing high-quality jewelry in Cambodia?
Alice: “Le savoir c’est le pouvoir! » « Knowledge is power,” as we say in French!
Fake stones are found everywhere, yet not many are aware that they have existed since 1890! However, it’s more intricate than just a fake stone, as fakes are relatively easy to identify with some knowledge. The real challenge lies in the treatment of natural gemstones, which poses difficulties for Cambodia and, indeed, for the world at large if you haven’t learned about them.
The gemstone market, where I hold expertise, is expanding globally; however, the supply remains unchanged. Cambodia is rich in gems, yet it also imports a significant amount of low-quality stones primarily from Chantaburi, as well as from Africa and other regions. These imported gems are often heavily treated to disguise their true nature and are sold at premium prices, despite being labeled as ‘commercial quality gems’.
Just this morning, a customer brought in a 2-carat Ruby from Burma that she purchased for $700. While the gem may have originated from Burma, it is filled with residues and glass, reducing its actual market value to only $70! Why would anyone pay $700 for something worth just $70? This is the message I aim to convey through my gem classes and the conference I plan to host later this year. I understand that I may not make many friends in the process. It’s never easy to inform a client that their stone is synthetic, treated, or even fake. I often spend nearly half an hour explaining and reassuring them, while the seller, who reaps the most profit, simply says, ‘trust me.’ Some clients can return the gem, while others are left with a financial loss.
Henry: Phnom Penh’s retail and lifestyle market has evolved significantly in recent years. How has this influenced your clientele and demand, particularly for bespoke, high-end, or personalised jewelry?
Alice: My client base expands every year, and I don’t engage in any marketing. I believe this growth is solely due to the satisfaction of our customers with the time and attention we provide. The advice we offer also plays a significant role. Additionally, I consider myself to be the most skilled in the field, boasting the most diverse collection of gems—not in sheer quantity, but in variety. This ensures that my clients can discover truly unique gems in my shop, making their rings, earrings, and pendants one-of-a-kind, as every gemstone is distinct.
Balancing creative vision with the operational and commercial realities
Henry: As both a designer and entrepreneur, how do you balance creative vision with the operational and commercial realities of running a business?
Alice: This is tough! As we have expanded significantly this year and I continue to perform numerous small repairs and transformations on my clients’ heirloom jewelry, it requires a lot of management, especially since we are still a small team. That’s why I recently hired Sarah Tauch, who is truly a lifesaver and is now managing most of the operational aspects of the business, allowing me to concentrate on creation. However, it is indeed challenging, particularly because we don’t repeat designs! Additionally, we don’t charge thousands, even though the design conception, stone selection, and execution can take weeks.
Henry: Looking ahead, what is your vision for Alice Varini Jewelry, and how do you see Cambodia positioning itself within the global jewelry and gemstone industry?
Alice: I aspire to grow the shop and am currently searching for a larger space within the next year or two. Let’s see how the local and global economy develop. I want to develop more high-end jewelry pieces, but I also want to continue providing various sections and price ranges because I believe jewelry should be accessible to everyone, not just the wealthy.
I want all to experience unique, handmade jewelry crafted from natural gems, ranging from silver to gold. We already offer a selection in our shop, with prices starting at $15 and going up to $5000 or more, depending on the gems. However, a larger space would enhance our efficiency by providing a dedicated shop area, a proper laboratory, and an organised office space. Currently, we manage all of this in just 50 square meters!
My vision includes a spacious establishment in Daun Penh where people can shop, meet, and learn, featuring an educational and informative mini-museum dedicated to Khmer gems and their families.
Alice Varini is restarting her acclaimed Gemology Class once a month!
If you are interested in learning how to identify different gem families and their origins in Cambodia, how to recognise fake stones in the market, and understand different types of treatments from an industry expert, please contact her directly to get more information.
Telegram (https://t.me/Alicevarini) 081781233
Link: https://t.me/Alicevarini
Register to her next gem class the Google form
GEMOLOGY CLASS REGISTRATION
Or visit her at her shop
ALICE VARINI JEWELRY SHOP (https://maps.app.goo.gl/poXgMQ344qvMBVxK9)
